A Day in History

DAY FOUR - Mon. Jan. Dec. 29, 2008

Today we had to be out of the hostel by 10:00. Because of the recent bombing yesterday (did I just say bombing???), we paid for an internet connection to e-mail our loved ones that we were safe. We had some time to explore our hostel and discovered that in 1878 - 1913 it was owned by the Russian Baron Plato Von Ustinov, who turned it into a Russian palace with extensive gardens. In 1882, destitute Jewish refugees from Russia landing in Jaffa were helped by Ustinov, a Christian. It was visited by Baron Rothschild and the German Emperor Kaiser Wilheim II.

We left and headed north, away from the fighting, and drove to Caesarea, Herod’s city by the sea. Before Herod, the city was owned by Cleopatra, but after her conquest by Rome, Augustus gave it to Herod and he re-built the city and re-named it for Caesar.

Caesarea was the grandest city in Palestine, other than Jerusalem, and became the capitol of Palestine after the fall of Jerusalem in 70 AD. It boasted a large deep sea harbor which utilized concrete in its walls, an aqueduct for a vast water system in the city, an amphitheater with thousands of seats, and an elaborate palace for Herod.

Caesarea played an important role in early Christian history. It was the place where Pontius Pilate governed during the time of Jesus. It was also here where Peter converted and baptized the Roman, Cornelius, the first non-Jew to believe in Jesus. Paul was imprisoned here for two years, and was sent to Rome from trial. Paul also set sail from this famous seaport for his journeys in the eastern Mediterranean.

Throughout the Roman persecution, thousands of Christians were transported here from Jerusalem and all over Israel for execution. During the 3rd century, however, Caesarea was a center of Christian learning. In the 4th century, the site converted to Christianity and became a major center of the Christian Roman Empire.

During the Byzantine period, the Church Father, Origen, founded a Christian academy here, which included a library of 30,000 manuscripts. Also, the theologian Eusebius, who served as Bishop of Caesarea, composed here.

Just north of the ancient city are the ruins of the ancient aqueduct, built to supply water to the city. It runs 9 km to the springs at the foot of Mt. Carmel. What an impressive feature on the Mediterranean beach!

Today, Caesarea boasts the only golf course in Israel - and we drove right by it. Fore!

Soon we turned east and made it through our first armed check point - at a strip mall where we stopped to grab some lunch. We couldn’t figure out why there was a station here, except for maybe the high volume of people. We didn’t find out until later when we found out that we had accidentally driven into a “no-go” Arab zone. This settlement was very close to that one.

After a mesmerizing drive through the countryside, filled with rolling hills and amazing multi-tiered houses built into the sides of these hills, (and our little jaunt through the Arab “no-go” zone), we finally arrived at our next destination, Megiddo. We took the time to explore the ancient ruins and ended up joining a church tour from Texas with a fabulously knowledgeable expert Israeli guide. This would turn out to be, humorously, a meeting orchestrated by God, as we ran into this group several more times at different places, which made an important connection with the guide for Delores who is writing an article on Israel for a magazine in Minnesota. God is good.

What a fascinating place! Megiddo is a tel (hill) made of 26 layers of the ruins of ancient cities dating back to 7000 B.C. It was at a strategic location on the ancient trade route north to south from Assyria, through Jerusalem, to Egypt and east to west from the sea to Damascus and Mesopotamia. Megiddo overlooks the Valley of Jezreel. It is interesting to note that the very first documented battle in recorded history was fought here in the 15th century BC between Egypt and Canaan, and, it is here that the legendary battle of Armageddon, to be the final battle in recorded history, will be fought.

Megiddo was first conquered by the Israelites when Joshua took it from the Canaanites in his conquest of the land. Megiddo became the center of the province and was one of King Solomon’s three treasure cities where he housed hundreds of his chariots and horses, with some of the stone feeding mangers remaining until today. King Ahab built a massive water tunnel rivaling that of King Hezekiah‘s, bringing water from the spring outside the walls into the city. King Josiah fell here in his battle with Egypt after they won it from Assyria. That latest battle was fought here during WWI in 1918.

From the top of the tel the view is magnificent. It is easy to imagine a great army congregating in the valley in force. You can look to the northeast and see Mt. Tabor in the distance where Deborah slew Barak, or turn southeast and see Mt. Moreh where Gideon and his 300 fought and won the battle against the Midianites.

Looking northeast you can also see the Arab-occupied cities of Nazareth, where Christ lived, and southeast across the valley to Jenin, which is where so many suicide bombings originate. As I stood on top of the high place, watching the dark clouds of rain begin to roll in, it was fascinating to see that the sun shone brightly through the clouds highlighting both cities, almost prophetic.

As the rain poured we drove towards Tiberias, where our next housing awaited. Tiberias, on the southwest side of the Sea of Galilee, is a city sitting below sea level and totally built into the sides of a hill. Tiberias was first built in 20 AD as a Roman spa resort because of the prevalent hot springs in the area and became the capitol of Galilee. No Jews lived or visited here because it was considered an unclean place. There is only one wall left from the ancient time period for it was all torn down and “erased” by the Jews in 1948.

We made several “circle tours” of the city and finally found the house where we would be staying for the next few nights. Our hostess was gracious and hospitable and we were settled in no time, ready to begin again the next day.

The Longest Day

DAY THIRTEEN - Wed. Jan. 7, 2009

We left Jerusalem in the wee hours of the morning, a bit sad. We arrived at the airport in Tel Aviv three hours before our flight. It turned out, however, that that was not enough time, as I was randomly selected to join others in a extremely thorough baggage check and was detained. After emptying all my luggage and having it checked zealously by a young girl with a scanning rod, I was told to pack it up and that I could leave. As I was walking away, I was stopped and asked to unpack it all a second time. The supervisor was on a power control kick and I could tell she was enjoying irritating all the westerners. I decided that getting upset or worrying about my flight would not make things any better, so I remained calm and composed. After all, I knew they weren’t going to find anything, so I had no worries.

At the gate, Molly told the airline what was happening and they held the flight for me. I was very thankful for I did not feel like waiting 24 hours for another flight. On the plane, Delores talked to a man who was detained several hours and even strip-searched. Not a good tourist promotion, and I don't think they found any bombs or threats out of the hundreds they detained.

When we arrived in Amsterdam, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that my flight to Minneapolis was delayed 3 hours, so I had plenty of time to take the train into the city and walk around. As I wandered the city streets, I marveled at the canals lined with tall, ornate buildings. The architecture there is spectacular. It was absolutely fabulous, even more remarkable than I‘d imagined.

I visited the very crowded Anne Frank museum, the office with the secret annex that housed eight Jews as they hid from the Nazis for two years in 1942 - 44. It was a perfect supplement to the Corrie ten Boom house in Haarlem and Yad Vashem in Israel. What a horrible time in Europe those years - almost every country touched by the cruelty, anger and hatred of one man who had evil in his heart. How so much more can each one of us touch people with the love of Christ, if we would just choose to do so.

My nine hour flight back to the states was seemingly endless as I was sitting next to a guy from Milan who made it very obvious he did not want to chat - at all. So, I watched a couple of movies, dozed a bit here and there, and chatted to people standing and stretching by the bathrooms. What? I'm supposed to be silent for nine hours?

All in all I was up about 50 hours, not counting the little bits of sleep I snuck in here and there. It was definitely one of the longest days of my life - traveling about 33 hours, yet somehow leaving and arriving all on the same day!

My first day back at work was pleasant. I got huge hugs from so many children that I knew my presence is appreciated, I am definitely missed when I am gone, and I am in a place where I am loved. God is good, and although my trip was fantastic, it is good to be home.

Shalom Israel

DAY TWELVE - Tues. Jan. 6, 2009

It is hard to believe that this is our last day here. It has been a journey of wonder and excitement, joy and hope, while at the same time ever increasing in my knowledge and faith. Every day we are up early, feet pounding the pavement (literally, most days), and we go until dark. We have seen so much it is hard to process. I have filed a lot away, saved until later when I can bring it out in bits and pieces in order to understand and contemplate it more fully.

Today we visited the archaeological City of David, the original site of Jerusalem just below the Old City, and Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Museum. It was interesting to end our visit here seeing the beginnings of this magnificent city and the attempted destruction of the race and culture that began in this Land.

I am sad to leave. Not only has it been a wonderfully enjoyable trip, but in many ways I have connected to the Land, the people and the roots. As I think back on our time here I am filled with many different thoughts and emotions. This is an ancient land, a land that has withstood many different cultures and empires living on its soil. It is a country torn by war, but, it is also a land of refreshing and newness. Currently the country is at war, but there is still an air of peace. Jerusalem, the capitol city, means the foundation of peace, and it definitely has been that to me.

The City of David is an archaeological site on the south side of the Old City. It is down the hill from the Old City facing the Kidron Valley. Amazingly, there is a piece of Nehemiah’s wall left intact. We decided to hike down to Warren’s Shaft which connects to Hezekiah’s tunnel, which still has water from the Gihon Spring running through it. To go into the tunnel requires water shoes and a flashlight and skin of steel. I decided not to make the others wait while I went spelunking, but I didn’t really feel like wading in icy cold water up to my waist, either. However, we did go through a Canaanite tunnel, one of those which David and Joab ventured through to get into the city of the Jebusites to conquer them.

Today, the City was full of young boys in training to be soldiers. They come here to train in the foundational history of their nation. It was sobering for me to stand as the groups of them passed by me, thinking that some of them might be killed in battle in the years to come. I met two, ages 14 and 15, who came here for special training. They were excited and geared to fight, yet so young, so naïve. They will come to the city as boys and leave closer to being men. It was inspiring to see many of their heads bowed over the Scriptures, reading and praying - something you see a lot of here, but not at home.

Yad Vashem is a spectacular memorial to the Jews who suffered and perished in the Holocaust. What a sobering place. It is good not to forget, but it is good to forgive. We saw the tree planted by Corrie ten Boom in memoriam to her family, and also the tree for Oskar Schindler. It was a nice touch to tie our first day in with our last - Amsterdam with the beginnings of Corrie’s story, her courage, internment, and the death of her family and her tribute to forgiveness and life at the end. What a message for the rest of us who struggle with forgiveness. We get so caught up with petty things, taking offense, holding grudges . . . when true life only comes when we forgive.

It has been an amazing two weeks and I am sorry to see it end, but, at the same time, I am excited to take part of this Land and what I have learned here back home with me to use and grow in my own walk with the Lord and to hopefully share with more understanding with others.

An Arab, a Christian, and a Jew

DAY THREE - Sun. Dec. 28, 2008

Our arrival in Tel Aviv at 2:30 a.m., with a check-in time at our hostel of 10 a.m., left us with several hours to burn. Although dead on our feet, and having been up over 36 hours with only a few hours dozing on the plane, we drove to the Mediterranean Sea at Joppa to watch the sunrise. It was totally awesome to see the dawning of a new day and to let it sink in that we were in Israel!

We drove around Joppa a bit, taking in the culture. Most of the houses are made of the native stone or concrete, badly eroding in the salty, humid air. The streets are narrow and winding, confusing, often leading to a dead end. It took me awhile to get my bearings, and it was easy to get lost - (but I didn’t!) I just performed one of many circle tours!

We got out of the car looking for food. We hadn’t eaten since the night before on the plane, which was really lunch as far as our tummies were concerned, so we were very hungry. We meandered around town a bit on foot and found a beautiful courtyard. There was a McDonalds, but it was closed, so we walked down to a street bakery where we bought some Israeli pastries. Not as good as Dutch pastries - rather bland.

It was finally time to go to our hostel. We arrived, but our room still was not ready. We were all so tired we ended up falling asleep on the couches in the lobby, in full view of the guests coming in and out. (Don’t tell my mother!) There was a family with three girls staying there. They were all over the place - and noisy! I don’t think I’ve ever heard such noisy kids, and it was quite something that we slept pretty much through them. In fact, I woke up with a start when they left the building and it got suddenly quiet!

Finally, we got our room and were able to get some sleep. Two hours later, though, someone came through the halls ringing a bell and yelling in Hebrew, so we woke up, not quite refreshed, but eager to get out and see the sights. We toured more of the city, went to the beach at the Mediterranean Sea, explored the old military fort and ate a wonderful dinner that even finicky eater me enjoyed.

Seeing Joppa brought a little bit of history into a reality. It is from the port of Joppa that Jonah set sail on his journey to Ninevah with his message of repentance. As I looked out at the Mediterranean Sea in front of me, I wondered what big fish was lurking in the crystal blue waters ready to gobble another disobedient, wayward soul.

On the sea front at Old Joppa, is a historical military post, harbor, lighthouse and houses. They are in the process of restoring the area and there is an archaeological dig site. It is in this cluster of houses that Simon the Tanner’s house is - where Peter visited and had the vision of the unclean/clean animals. We were unable to see it, but being that close made the story come to life.

At the same place, out a ways in the sea, are the fabled rocks of Andromeda. As the legend goes, it was on these rocks that Andromeda was tied as a sacrifice to the sea monster, the Kraken, when Perseus flew in on Pegasus and rescued her from her fate.

While on our walking tour, a Muslim call to prayer went out. For over an hour a chant was broadcast over a loudspeaker from a mosque. The difference in cultures here is amazing! To actually see, hear, smell and taste the different cultures living side by side, yet so differently, was an eye-opener.

While exploring the fort, and looking for Simon’s house, I drove into a parking lot the wrong way, right over a spike. Amazing what a large, sharp metal object will do to a tire. It was completely flat in less than 5 minutes! We were lucky it didn‘t get all four! I went looking for help and finally found a young Arab who changed our tire for us. He was very friendly and talkative about how he wanted to visit America. Now, we just needed a tire store that was open on a Sunday night.

It is different in Israel. They do not have stores like in America. Rather, they open up shop along the sidewalk, opening their garage door to the public. I remembered there was a mechanical looking shop right next to the bakery we had visited earlier in the day. We drove over there and he was a Jew who, fortunately for us, spoke English. He called a tire shop who sent a helper right away - on foot! This young man didn’t speak a word of English, so he called his manager to translate for me. He ended up getting in the car with us to guide us to the shop, where it ended up that we needed a new tire.

On the way the traffic was fierce, especially for a Sunday night. So, this young man hopped out of the car and literally started yelling at some drivers to get them to move out of my way so I could get through to his shop. It was incredible! Our own “parting” of the sea (of cars). The guy who changed our tire was very happy to show us his cross and informed us he was Greek Orthodox. So, in our tire situation, we had been blessed by an Arab, a Jew and a Christian, one each from the warring factions in the Land.

Tel Aviv is the largest city in Israel, but it is different than I imagined. It is a concrete metropolis that is dirty and noisy. It took me awhile to learn the road signs so got honked at many, many times. (I think honking in Israel is a national pastime). Nonetheless, I soon became an accomplished Israeli driver - one hand on the wheel and the other on the horn. I have yet to honk at someone (other than Delores), but it is on my list of things to do while in Israel. It is disconcerting how much these people honk - nudniks! (This is my new Jewish word. Anyone guess what it means?)

We read in the newspaper that the day before, Israel bombed the Gaza Strip, so that was a bit of a shock. It was sobering thinking that people were being bombed and dying only one hour away to the south. Good thing we're heading north! We are trusting the Lord with our safety!